Today I woke up like a kid on Christmas day as we were going to embark on the hike I’d been dreaming about for years. We planned to hike to the other four villages and take in the scenery along the way. Camera fully charged and ready, we filled our backpack with snacks, money, and sunscreen and hit the trail.
Rick Steve’s guide warns that this hike is not easy and to be prepared for a work-out. He wasn’t kidding! From village to village, the trail goes straight up and then levels out above the town below and curves along the coastline. To enter the next village, the trail goes straight down again (usually involving countless steps). With the heat wave still in effect, we would be hiking the trails in 100 degree heat. I don’t exaggerate when I say that we drank a dozen bottles of water throughout the day and were still thirsty!
Despite the rigorousness, the hike was even more incredible than I ever imagined. The views of the towns below were picturesque and magical, and we could see the various shades of blue and green that made the ocean look aquamarine below. We stopped along the way to take pictures and take in the sights.
Vernazza was the next town over from Monterosso. As was we climbed down the stairs and winded around the path into the town, a small band played music for tips, welcoming us into the village. With the various colors of tall buildings, the colorful boats and the music, Kyle accurately summarized it saying, “I feel like I’m on a ride at Disneyland!” We decided we would stop and explore each town before hitting the trail again. We found that Vernazza had been hit particularly hard by the October 2011 floods and much construction was underway. The town was small, but the scenery was unmatched.
Next we hit the trail to Corniglia. Vineyards lined the trail, as Corniligia is known for its wine. We had no idea grapes could grow in this type of climate! It made for an incredible view with the vines and grapes to our left and the water below. Corniligia looked like a magical town off in the distance as fog had settled in and we could see it from afar through the mist. When we arrived in Corniglia, the hills and winding roads made for interesting exploration.
The “easy” trial to Manarola was closed due to flood damage and the only way to hike to Manarola was to take the “advanced” trail up to Volastra and over to Manarola. Determined not to give up on seeing the “quattro” of the “cinque” terres, we braced ourselves for the advanced hike. This trail started with the usual straight uphill, where we came across a nice elderly couple. The man asked Kyle, “How are you doing?” Kyle cheerily responded “Good, thanks!” The old man shook his head and said, “I’ll ask you that again in 30 minutes and see what you say then.” We shrugged our shoulders and kept hiking uphill, soon to find out what he meant by that comment…For no less than 30 minutes, we hiked straight up countless stairs. There was no leveling off, no break. The only reprieve was to stop and catch our breath, all the while, looking up knowing more stairs still needed to be climbed. Once we finally got to the top, dripping in sweat, we had climbed up so high that we were literally at the level of the pine trees! Corniglia below looked like a small speck—this hike is not recommended for someone who is afraid of heights.
We had finally leveled off and now wound our way through the trail that ended in the small town of Volastra. While not one of the Cinque Terre, Volastra had its own beauty with giant hydrangea bushes planted throughout the town. We had a difficult time finding the trail that would take us in to Manarola until we came across some equally sweaty-looking hikers. They led us to a staircase that they said would take us to Manarola. The British hiker warned us, “There’s about a million stairs. I thought I was going to die!” We laughed thinking he was exaggerating…Another 30 minutes and about a million stairs later, we realized he was not. Both our legs were shaking from stabilizing going straight downhill on rocky, uneven steps.
When we finally made it to Manarola, we were famished. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast (and some snacks along the way), and by now our bodies were used to the giant meals and calorie counts we had been consuming so far on the trip. We found a restaurant with a great ocean view and sat down for the first time all day. Our legs were grateful for the break as we filled our stomachs with spaghetti al pomodoro and trofie pesto. We had never heard of trofie pasta before, but it’s a delicate pasta that tastes like a smaller, lighter type of gnocci. Since we had been hiking through vineyards all day, we decided we had to try to the local wine, and ordered a half bottle of chilled white pinot grigio-type wine. The meal was fantastic and the pesto was all it was cracked up to be.
The family sitting at the table next to us must’ve noticed our sweaty clothes or the exhaustion on our faces and asked if we had just hiked from Corniglia. When we told them we had, but that we had actually started our day in Monterosso, they looked stunned and the daughter exclaimed, “Wow! Congratulations!” Only then did we begin to realize that most people hike one town to the next in a day—not all of the trails in one day. The family assured us that the last trail was “a piece of cake” and would be an easy stroll compared to what we had already completed that day.
The last part of the trail was called the Pathway of Love, or “Via dell’Amore.”
The trail is famous for lovers placing padlocks on chain-link fences and inscribing their names on a designated wall of the hike, symbolizing their eternal love. While we didn’t bring a lock, we did write our names on the wall and take a picture on the “lover’s bench.” This was a definitely a light stroll, but still beautiful and scenic.
Seven hours later we had reached the end of our hike. We decided that the best way back (and the coolest) would be to take the boat ride that stops in each town. We bought our boat tickets, had a cup of celebratory gelato and dipped our feet in the ocean waiting for our boat ride. The boat ride didn’t disappoint, as it stopped at each port—each more gorgeous than the next.
While this is turning into the longest blog post yet, this was not the end of our magical day. As described on a previous post, Italy beat England in the Euro Cup, and tonight they would take on Germany in the semi-final match. Monterosso was buzzing before the game, with locals running around in Italian flags and blue Italia shirts, and tourists trying to figure out where to watch the game.
We found a bar called Fast that had stadium-style seating set up for the game. We decided to have a quick dinner of focaccia pizza and then go there to grab a seat to watch the game. The man who owned the pizzeria had put up a cardboard sign that said, “Store closes at 8:30” (the game was scheduled to start at 8:40). He was clearly in no mood to make pizza.
We walked in and looked at the menu to which he told us, “NO PIZZAS!” We laughed, thinking he was making a joke, but again he told, “No joke. NO PIZZAS!” I asked if we could order the slices in the case and he nodded. We got two slices—one slice of focaccia pesto and one slice of focaccia al pomodora. We ate our delicious slices in a hurry as we sat on the pizzeria patio watching the chaos as the town prepared for the game. The pizzeria owner yelled at others in Italian who tried to enter his shop, waving his hands and yelling what sounded like Italian cuss words.
After our rushed dinner, we got the last two open seats at Fast and sat down to watch the game. The bar was filled with what appeared to be half locals and half tourists. The tourists watched the crowd of locals more than the game itself as the locals sang the Italian national anthem and cheered “I-T-A-L-I-A” while waving their hands furiously at the TV.
Italy scored a goal pretty early in the game and the crowd erupted. Beer went flying and tables were overturned (the tables were soon removed by the bar owner to avoid damage/injury). The locals were hugging and kissing each other, jumping up and down in joy and singing the Italian national anthem again. It was an incredible moment to witness!
Then later in the first half, Italy scored a second goal. The locals went even crazier at this goal, as if their team had just one the game. One local kid (yes, kids were in the bar watching the game) was waving his arms in excitement and then turned around, looked at Kyle and me, and kicked his chair directly at us. Luckily I jumped out of the way to avoid the chair, and then I captured the insanity on film. The locals were spilling beers, tripping over each other to celebrate. The amount of joy this second goal brought these people was unfathomable.
The remainder of the game went scoreless (until Germany’s last-minute penalty kick), but the celebration at the end of the game was anti-climactic compared to the earlier festivities. The locals again sang the national anthem and somewhere in the streets people fired smoke bombs. Within minutes of the game ending, everyone scattered. It was truly an unbelievable experience to witness the passion these people have for this game. And the most exciting part is that Italy will play Spain in the final game this Sunday when we’ll be in Rome!
And that marks the end of what will forever be one of the most memorable days of our lives!
Rick Steve’s guide warns that this hike is not easy and to be prepared for a work-out. He wasn’t kidding! From village to village, the trail goes straight up and then levels out above the town below and curves along the coastline. To enter the next village, the trail goes straight down again (usually involving countless steps). With the heat wave still in effect, we would be hiking the trails in 100 degree heat. I don’t exaggerate when I say that we drank a dozen bottles of water throughout the day and were still thirsty!
Despite the rigorousness, the hike was even more incredible than I ever imagined. The views of the towns below were picturesque and magical, and we could see the various shades of blue and green that made the ocean look aquamarine below. We stopped along the way to take pictures and take in the sights.
Vernazza was the next town over from Monterosso. As was we climbed down the stairs and winded around the path into the town, a small band played music for tips, welcoming us into the village. With the various colors of tall buildings, the colorful boats and the music, Kyle accurately summarized it saying, “I feel like I’m on a ride at Disneyland!” We decided we would stop and explore each town before hitting the trail again. We found that Vernazza had been hit particularly hard by the October 2011 floods and much construction was underway. The town was small, but the scenery was unmatched.

The “easy” trial to Manarola was closed due to flood damage and the only way to hike to Manarola was to take the “advanced” trail up to Volastra and over to Manarola. Determined not to give up on seeing the “quattro” of the “cinque” terres, we braced ourselves for the advanced hike. This trail started with the usual straight uphill, where we came across a nice elderly couple. The man asked Kyle, “How are you doing?” Kyle cheerily responded “Good, thanks!” The old man shook his head and said, “I’ll ask you that again in 30 minutes and see what you say then.” We shrugged our shoulders and kept hiking uphill, soon to find out what he meant by that comment…For no less than 30 minutes, we hiked straight up countless stairs. There was no leveling off, no break. The only reprieve was to stop and catch our breath, all the while, looking up knowing more stairs still needed to be climbed. Once we finally got to the top, dripping in sweat, we had climbed up so high that we were literally at the level of the pine trees! Corniglia below looked like a small speck—this hike is not recommended for someone who is afraid of heights.
We had finally leveled off and now wound our way through the trail that ended in the small town of Volastra. While not one of the Cinque Terre, Volastra had its own beauty with giant hydrangea bushes planted throughout the town. We had a difficult time finding the trail that would take us in to Manarola until we came across some equally sweaty-looking hikers. They led us to a staircase that they said would take us to Manarola. The British hiker warned us, “There’s about a million stairs. I thought I was going to die!” We laughed thinking he was exaggerating…Another 30 minutes and about a million stairs later, we realized he was not. Both our legs were shaking from stabilizing going straight downhill on rocky, uneven steps.
When we finally made it to Manarola, we were famished. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast (and some snacks along the way), and by now our bodies were used to the giant meals and calorie counts we had been consuming so far on the trip. We found a restaurant with a great ocean view and sat down for the first time all day. Our legs were grateful for the break as we filled our stomachs with spaghetti al pomodoro and trofie pesto. We had never heard of trofie pasta before, but it’s a delicate pasta that tastes like a smaller, lighter type of gnocci. Since we had been hiking through vineyards all day, we decided we had to try to the local wine, and ordered a half bottle of chilled white pinot grigio-type wine. The meal was fantastic and the pesto was all it was cracked up to be.
The family sitting at the table next to us must’ve noticed our sweaty clothes or the exhaustion on our faces and asked if we had just hiked from Corniglia. When we told them we had, but that we had actually started our day in Monterosso, they looked stunned and the daughter exclaimed, “Wow! Congratulations!” Only then did we begin to realize that most people hike one town to the next in a day—not all of the trails in one day. The family assured us that the last trail was “a piece of cake” and would be an easy stroll compared to what we had already completed that day.
The last part of the trail was called the Pathway of Love, or “Via dell’Amore.”

Seven hours later we had reached the end of our hike. We decided that the best way back (and the coolest) would be to take the boat ride that stops in each town. We bought our boat tickets, had a cup of celebratory gelato and dipped our feet in the ocean waiting for our boat ride. The boat ride didn’t disappoint, as it stopped at each port—each more gorgeous than the next.
While this is turning into the longest blog post yet, this was not the end of our magical day. As described on a previous post, Italy beat England in the Euro Cup, and tonight they would take on Germany in the semi-final match. Monterosso was buzzing before the game, with locals running around in Italian flags and blue Italia shirts, and tourists trying to figure out where to watch the game.
We found a bar called Fast that had stadium-style seating set up for the game. We decided to have a quick dinner of focaccia pizza and then go there to grab a seat to watch the game. The man who owned the pizzeria had put up a cardboard sign that said, “Store closes at 8:30” (the game was scheduled to start at 8:40). He was clearly in no mood to make pizza.
We walked in and looked at the menu to which he told us, “NO PIZZAS!” We laughed, thinking he was making a joke, but again he told, “No joke. NO PIZZAS!” I asked if we could order the slices in the case and he nodded. We got two slices—one slice of focaccia pesto and one slice of focaccia al pomodora. We ate our delicious slices in a hurry as we sat on the pizzeria patio watching the chaos as the town prepared for the game. The pizzeria owner yelled at others in Italian who tried to enter his shop, waving his hands and yelling what sounded like Italian cuss words.
After our rushed dinner, we got the last two open seats at Fast and sat down to watch the game. The bar was filled with what appeared to be half locals and half tourists. The tourists watched the crowd of locals more than the game itself as the locals sang the Italian national anthem and cheered “I-T-A-L-I-A” while waving their hands furiously at the TV.
Italy scored a goal pretty early in the game and the crowd erupted. Beer went flying and tables were overturned (the tables were soon removed by the bar owner to avoid damage/injury). The locals were hugging and kissing each other, jumping up and down in joy and singing the Italian national anthem again. It was an incredible moment to witness!

The remainder of the game went scoreless (until Germany’s last-minute penalty kick), but the celebration at the end of the game was anti-climactic compared to the earlier festivities. The locals again sang the national anthem and somewhere in the streets people fired smoke bombs. Within minutes of the game ending, everyone scattered. It was truly an unbelievable experience to witness the passion these people have for this game. And the most exciting part is that Italy will play Spain in the final game this Sunday when we’ll be in Rome!
And that marks the end of what will forever be one of the most memorable days of our lives!